A visit to New Zealand isn’t complete without taking a trip to the beautiful South Island, which enjoys year-round tourism. I spent several months living, working and backpacking in New Zealand. In this article, I will outline an incredible 3-week New Zealand South Island itinerary based on my personal experiences. The stunning scenery here will astound you, so let’s get started.
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How to get to New Zealand’s South Island
There are two main ways to reach New Zealand’s South Island. If you’re travelling from Wellington, take the ferry across the Cook Strait to Picton. Otherwise, if you can fly into Christchurch or Queenstown, the two major entry points.
My ferry trip to the South Island
I woke up to the buzzing of my phone. Bleary-eyed, I wondered who on earth would want to call me at 7.30 in the morning. Then, it dawned on me. Yep, it was the ferry company in Wellington.
They politely asked if I was ready to arrive for boarding, as the boat was about to leave. I was still in Auckland. And I had booked the ferry for the wrong day.
Whoops.
A new phrase I picked up in New Zealand is ‘cruisy’. Meaning easy, relaxed, no worries. My inaugural trip to the South Island was not getting off to the cruisy-est of starts. But I was confident that things would work out.
When travelling, there’s always an element of keeping the faith and hoping everything will fall into place somehow.
Thankfully, this time my optimism was well placed. The lovely people at Bluebridge ferries responded to my pleading email and generously transferred my booking to the next day.
Now all I needed to do was catch my flight to Wellington and all would be sorted.
I’m not going to tell you how I almost left my coat behind on the check-in counter at the airport. That would just be embarrassing.
Nothing to do with my fuzzy head from drinking ginger beer and kumara (sweet potato) vodka at a party the night before. Oh no.
Arriving in Wellington
So, I made it to a very soggy Wellington. Sadly for all the fancy-dressed Rugby Sevens revellers, it insisted on raining all day.
With my own hastily put together outfit, I hit the town with my friend Chloe. We got amongst the action but, like the weather, the general mood was a little dampened, so we were sensible. Meaning I made it in plenty of time the next day to catch my rebooked ferry. Excellent.
The cruise across the Cook Strait was a little choppy, but I comfortably read and slept through the four hours. Then it was time to disembark.
The huge ferry door slowly opened. I followed my fellow passengers – some still drunk and glitter-speckled from the Sevens celebrations – blinking into the sunlight.
We weren’t in Wellington any more.
Planning Your 3-Week New Zealand South Island Itinerary
If you’re looking for the ultimate backpacking route, covering must-see spots, hidden gems and budget-friendly travel tips, then this New Zealand South Island itinerary is for you.
Some people start their South Island adventures from Christchurch, but this one starts from Wellington on the North Island and ends in Christchurch.
How to get around the South Island
I travelled around the South Island on a Stray bus tour. Companies like Stray Travel and InterCity offer hop-on-hop-off passes that are sociable and convenient ways for backpackers to see the highlights.
Otherwise, you could hire a campervan and explore this beautiful island at your own pace.
Day 1-2: Wellington to Picton
Start your journey by taking the scenic ferry from Wellington to Picton, the gateway to South Island. Stay at Tombstone Backpackers, a quirky hostel with stunning views and a cozy atmosphere.
My hostel in Picton
A top tip from Chloe led me a short walk from the ferry terminal – along Gravesend Place, past Picton cemetery and up the hill to the brilliantly named Tombstone Backpackers hostel. Here, they invite you to ‘rest in peace’.
Entrance is through a heavy wooden coffin-shaped door, but there’s no need to fear. Waiting on the other side is a warm welcome from the cheery and helpful host, Lynne, who showed me around.
On the day I arrived she was a little frustrated because her computer had ‘given up the ghost.’ While I don’t think the pun was intended, I enjoyed it.
This bright and clean accommodation offers free breakfast, granite-tiled bathrooms and plenty of comfortable spaces to rest your weary bones. This includes a blissful hot spa pool overlooking the harbour.
Book your bed at Tombstone Backpackers hostel.
Day 3-4: Nelson & Abel Tasman National Park
The first stop on this three-week New Zealand South Island Itinerary is somewhere special: Abel Tasman National Park.
Here it is so remote you can’t even pick up a signal on your mobile phone. It’s so beautiful that many of my traveller friends have named it their favourite stop in the South Island.
To get here from Picton, take a bus to Nelson, known for its sunny climate and vibrant arts scene. Then, it’s one hour away to explore Abel Tasman National Park, famous for golden beaches, kayaking, and scenic hikes.
My experience hitchhiking to Nelson
My next error was not pre-booking my bus to Nelson in time.
With Lynne’s help, I overcame my nerves and hitchhiked all the way to my hostel in Nelson. Luckily, everyone was friendly and kind, and I didn’t run into any problems.
I even ended up with a bag full of fresh local green-lipped mussels, which I cooked for dinner that night. It was a gift from a driver delivering goods to supermarkets.
The next day, the eye-catching big orange Stray bus picked me up from outside the hostel. It was a hot sunny Tuesday afternoon and I was excited about the travels that lay ahead. I had heard so much about the places we were about to visit.
Where to stay in Nelson
If you’re looking for a hostel in Nelson, consider:
- YHA Nelson – A well-rated hostel with great facilities and a friendly vibe.
- Tasman Bay Backpackers – Offers free hot chocolate pudding every night!
Explore the map below to find the best accommodation deals in Nelson for your dates:
How to get from Nelson to Abel Tasman National Park
The journey from Nelson to Abel Tasman National Park is about 60 km (37 miles) and takes approximately one hour.
Companies like Abel Tasman Coachlines and Marahau Water Taxis offer daily shuttle buses from Nelson to the park entrance. Otherwise, renting a car is a great option for flexibility, especially if you want to explore the surrounding areas at your own pace.
Abel Tasman – where to stay and things to do
If you want to stay close to the park, check out the Marahau Beach Camp, by the beach.
Things to do here include:
- Kayaking tours – Paddle through crystal-clear waters and explore secluded coves. Rent yours here.
- Enjoy a scenic catamaran cruise – This is what we did and it was fabulous. Book your place here.
- Hiking the Abel Tasman Coastal Track – One of New Zealand’s Great Walks, offering incredible coastal views.
- Relax on the beaches – Enjoy golden sand beaches like Anchorage and Kaiteriteri.
Hiking through the jungle, you get to see waterfalls and spectacular beach views. Try this organised tour.
Day 5-6: Franz Josef Glacier
The next highlight is Franz Josef, a small town resembling a ski resort. It takes a full day to travel here along the scenic West Coast route, but it’s worth it. Tourists come here to check out the famous glacier. It’s one of only four in the world which sits alongside a temperate rainforest.
Here you can:
- Take a heli-hike or trek to the base of Franz Josef Glacier. Try this popular tour.
- Enjoy the glacier hot pools after a day of adventure.
- Set sail on a kayaking trip to see the native kiwi birds.
Where to stay in Franz Josef
For budget-friendly and comfortable accommodation in Franz Josef, take a look at:
- Rainforest Retreat – A fabulous hostel with dorms, private rooms and a lively bar.
- Haka House Franz Josef – A recently renovated hostel with its own sauna.
My experience at Franz Josef
The clement weather meant the helicopters could fly us up to the glacier for our hike. With the sun shining, our enthusiastic guide used his pick to forge steps in the ice for us to climb.
We filled our water bottles with the clear water trickling through the blue ice and explored the caves we found. Our icy expedition was followed by a complimentary dip in the local (very) hot spa pools.
Later I enjoyed a kayaking trip and visited the kiwi centre. Here, you can see these shy nocturnal birds up close. In the evening we danced the night away at a Valentine’s Day party. I certainly felt the love for this place.
Day 7-8: Wanaka
Wanaka was one of my favourite stops. I recommend staying overnight at this beautiful lakeside town surrounded by mountains.
The journey from Franz Josef to Wanaka is around 285 km (177 miles) and takes approximately 4.5 to 5 hours by bus or if you’re driving. The drive itself, through the beautiful Haast Pass, is absolutely stunning full of waterfalls and viewpoints.
In Wanaka you can:
- Visit Lake Wanaka and hike Roy’s Peak for breathtaking views.
- Check out the mind-boggling exhibitions at Puzzling World – book your tickets in advance here.
- Enjoy the excellent local wine at the Rippon winery or take a happy hour cruise on the lake.
Where to stay in Wanaka
For backpacker accommodation in Wanaka, check out Haka House Wanaka, a cozy hostel with wonderful views. Alternatively, there’s Mountain View Backpackers, which is comfortable, with a friendly atmosphere.
Day 9-11: Queenstown – New Zealand’s Adventure Capital
Queenstown is possibly the most famous tourist town in New Zealand.
It’s known for being the home of extreme sports, from bungee jumps, to sky dives, canyoning, snowboarding and much more. There are also a lot of bars. The legendarily juicy, meaty Fergburger is a Queenstown foodie highlight.
- Go bungee jumping or skydiving if you’re feeling adventurous.
- Ride the Queenstown Luge and take the Skyline Gondola.
- Try the famous Fergburger.
Where to stay in Queenstown
Queenstown is a backpacker favourite, so there are plenty of places to stay. Arguably the best is Adventure Queenstown Hostel. This fabulous place is highly rated, with great communal spaces and activities.
For me, the best thing about Queenstown was not the town itself, but the surrounding countryside which was simply breathtaking.
Day 12-13: Milford Sound
Milford Sound is another well-known stop on the South Island, famed for its cruises. There aren’t many places to stay at Milford Sound, so stay overnight at nearby Te Anau. Alternatively, you can book a day trip from Queenstown to Milford Sound.
- Take a boat cruise through Milford Sound, one of the world’s most beautiful fjords.
- At Te Anau explore the glowworm caves.
How to get from Queenstown to Milford Sound
The journey from Queenstown to Milford Sound is around 287 km (178 miles) and takes approximately 4-5 hours each way.
You won’t be able to take your eyes away from the majestic, sunlit views out of the windows. It’s so captivating.
There are many places en route for photo opportunities, including a mountainside lake so blue you can hardly believe it.
Day 14-15: Stewart Island (optional)
At the far south of New Zealand lays the country’s third largest land mass: Stewart Island. With just one supermarket and one restaurant in the harbour-side town, it’s a quaint island. It’s quite a distance to get there, which is why I’ve put it as optional.
- Take a ferry to Stewart Island, a remote paradise perfect for nature lovers. Book the ferry here.
- Spot kiwis in the wild and hike the Rakiura Track.
My experience on Stewart Island
This is an optional, but unique trip on the Stray tour. A few of us braved the choppy waters of the ferry crossing to check out this picturesque place.
Here, there are opportunities to spot kiwis and penguins (sadly we saw neither) and hike through the pretty countryside.
Day 16-17: Mount Cook National Park
One of the most magnificent places in New Zealand’s South Island is Mount Cook.
Our hostel in the village was overlooked by enormous snow-capped mountains. A very peaceful area, we took some hikes to explore the local scenery.
Here you can:
- Visit Aoraki/Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak.
- Hike the Hooker Valley Track for incredible glacier views.
- Enjoy a helicopter tour over this scenic area. Book it here.
Day 18-19: Rangitata
Travelling from Mount Cook to Rangitata is a scenic 3-4 hour journey through the Canterbury region. Here you can face the rapids at Rangitata River, one of the best rafting spots in NZ.
My experience whitewater rafting at Rangitata
At Rangitata I faced my fear and decided to try white-water rafting again, after my first not-so-amazing attempt. I needn’t have worried.
At Rangitata Rafts we received a thorough briefing from the friendly instructors. The three-hour trip through the increasingly energetic rapids was much more how I’d imagined whitewater rafting to be.
It was a lot of fun and we were laughing and smiling the whole way. As always for this pursuit, it’s not without its risks. Luckily we paddled well and – with a little luck too – we sailed over the highest grade rapids without any incident.
We even took a stop to climb some nearby rocks and jump into the water, with varying degrees of grace. I was very nervous, but I did it!
Day 20-21: Kaikoura
The tiny town of Kaikoura offers incredible experiences of whale watching and swimming with wild dolphins.
You can also hike along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway for spectacular coastal views.
Read all about where to stay and my experience in Kaikoura here.
Day 22-23: Christchurch – The Garden City
On the final days of your New Zealand South Island itinerary, spend some time in Christchurch, a city that blends history, resilience, and creativity. Despite the damage from the 2011 earthquake, Christchurch has resurged as a lively urban hub with modern architecture, street art, and green spaces.
Here you can:
- Visit the Canterbury Museum and Christchurch Art Gallery.
- Stroll through the picturesque Christchurch Botanic Gardens.
- Explore the Riverside Market for fresh produce and local treats.
- Take a ride on the iconic Christchurch Tram.
From Christchurch, you can fly to major destinations such as Auckland, Sydney, Melbourne, or Singapore, making it a convenient departure point for your next adventure.
Read all about where to stay and my experience in Christchurch here.
The best time to visit New Zealand’s South Island
The South Island of New Zealand can be explored year-round, but the best time depends on your interests:
- Summer (December – February): Best for hiking, road trips, and warm weather.
- Winter (June – August): Ideal for skiing and snowboarding in Queenstown and Wanaka.
- Spring & Autumn: Fewer crowds and stunning landscapes with blooming flowers or autumn foliage.
Final thoughts on a 3-week New Zealand South Island itinerary
This 3-week itinerary of New Zealand’s South Island is an adventure of a lifetime.
Whether you’re chasing waterfalls, hiking glaciers, or experiencing the thrill of Queenstown’s extreme sports, every stop gives you something unique. Not to mention the breathtaking scenery along the way. Sometimes it really is about the journey.
It’s good to leave with things you’d still like to do, as it gives you an excuse to go back. Maybe now I’ve jumped off the rock at Rangitata, I’ll have the courage to come back to New Zealand’s South Island for a sky dive.
My tour of the New Zealand South Island was certainly one to remember. I wouldn’t hesitate to do it all over again. Travelling with Stray was ‘cruisy’, indeed.
If you’re planning to explore New Zealand’s North Island, check out my guide here.
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